Dabbawalla 427 Springfield Ave., Summit. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 5-11 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays, 5-9 p.m. Sundays. Brunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays. BYOW. Major credit cards. Casual dress. Wheelchair accessible. Reservations only for parties of 10 or more: (908) 918-0330. *** Dabbawalla definitely is something different - the name itself offers evidence enough of this restaurant's innovation. In India, a Dabbawalla is a worker who operates as part of an intricate takeout system that gets meals to office employees via the railroad. The food is put in dabbas, metal containers that also are used to serve the entrees at Dabbawalla. In India, the dabbawallas use symbols painted on the dabbas to keep track of which meal goes where, a system that has only one error in 6 million transactions, according to a study in Forbes magazine.
In Summit, however, the transaction is a far simpler one-on-one between you and your server, who brings your order from the kitchen to the long tables set with placemats, surrounded by photos of Indian street scenes. The whole thing is a gimmick, but it's fun and interesting. At the very least, the concept offers something to talk about while perusing the long and exciting menu.
Dabbawalla is the first U.S. venture of the Mars Group (no connection to M&M Mars), an Indian hotel, restaurant and catering company. Someday, it may be part of a chain, but at the moment, it's one of a kind. It offers an amazing variety of dishes. Many probably will be familiar to you - chicken tikka masala ($18.75) in a creamy tomato dressing, the crisp okra of bhindi Masala ($13.50), a variety of breads, including naan ($3) and potato or chicken-stuffed paratha ($3.25). Others have potential as exciting ventures into the unknown, including Indian-style Chinese food, such as Manchurian chicken ($18.75), cubes of poultry and bell peppers ($18.75) in a soy sauce gravy, or chili chicken ($18.75) that has been marinated in ginger and garlic. While you won't find any beef or pork at most Indian restaurants, Dabbawalla presents items including both. Chef Colin Crasdo grew up in Gorai, an Indian beach area of Mumbai known for its population of Christians, whose ancestors were converted by the Portuguese in the 16th century. Crasdo calls dishes like pork vindaloo and beef lonvas "Roman Catholic cooking," regarding them among his East Indian specialties, although a broad range of Indian cuisine is represented at Dabbawalla. Crasdo, who went to culinary school in India, had gigs in New York at the Beekman Towers and the elite Union Club. But at Dabbawalla, he finally can give free expression to his native cuisine. Examples are the braised beef and pumpkin lonvas ($19.25) in a "bottle Masala gravy" touched with garlic, and another version of that involving shrimp and white radish. Bottle Masala is a blend of spices that may include sesame and coriander seeds, turmeric, cardamom, cinnamon and cloves; all roasted, then ground and mixed together in a bottle. It offers a tapestry of nuances to the food for a joyful new experience. Spices are used judiciously, and many dishes are on the mild side. That doesn't mean they lack punch, however. A case in point is the intensely flavored shrimp rasa ($21.25) in a melodious tamarind and coconut curry. As a counterpoint to the abundance of meat on the menu, vegetarian choices are available. Broccoli and cauliflower cooked in the tandoor oven ($13.50) and aloo gobi ($13.50), cubed potatoes and cauliflower highlighted by turmeric and cilantro, are among the choices in this category.
You could also make a meal of the starters. The Big Man Tandoori Platter ($24.50) offers plenty to share: shrimp, chicken, lamb kebabs and ground lamb served with a variety of chutneys for mix-and-match flavors. Spongy Kerala steamed idlis ($5.25) are rice cakes with coconut chutney and sambhar, a blend of lentils, vegetables and tamarind for dipping. This is a popular breakfast combo in South India, but here it makes for a nice component of dinner. The puri bhaji ($6.25) is like an Indian potato salad sparked by mustard seeds and curry leaves that comes with puffed bread, adding another sensation in such a different range from the idli. Trying a variety of items is enjoyable not only for the exciting flavors, but also for the mouth-feel that goes from soft to crisp and crunchy as you send plates around the table.
Dabbawalla is connected with another Mars enterprise, Birdy's. It's a bakery next door that operates as a takeout establishment but also makes its cakes available to those dining in at Dabbawalla. Offerings include Black Forest ($3.25), chocolate velvet ($3.75) and hazelnut wonder ($3.75). While those are tempting, I would recommend trying the warm bibinca ($7.75) from the Dabbawalla menu. This multi-layered pancake and coconut creation, a favorite in Goa, is warmly satisfying, and like the grated carrot halwa flavored with cinnamon and cardamom ($6.75) a departure from such usual U.S. Indian restaurant desserts as kulfi ($6.75), a rich ice cream. The food and service, under the capable management of Alok Sarin, were right-on at Dabbawalla. Our only suggestion concerned the atmosphere; keeping the lights a little lower would add a fine dining touch. Bright lights made it reminiscent of a cafeteria because of the long tables.
Dabbawalla is not only good eating, but it's also fun, with a staff that we found to be both pleasant and informed. Even when the novelty of the concept wears off, the food is still worth a return trip.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________ Cody Kendall may be reached at CodyDine@netscape.net.
PHOTO CAPTION: At Dabbawalla, an Indian restaurant in Summit, food is served in a four-level metal container called a dabba. CREDIT: JIM WRIGHT/FOR THE STAR-LEDGER
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